After Hours- A poem
You said you knew what I would like
and handed me an old copy of Njal’s Saga.
I curled on the floor,
You watched as I fingered its weathered pages.
The music ensued;
I pretended to care for it
but only because it was yours.
As morning broke,
our conversation faded
like the tattoo of your grandfather’s window
and the sunset over the swan road
on the nights you never showed.
I don’t do much writing. As a writer, one would think this time on the road would be advantageous, and although I do a lot of journaling when I am away, I save creative writing for when I return.
I do, however, gather inspiration from my travels. Whether it’s through the landscapes, experiences, or research (like what brought me to Iceland in the first place during my book draft!), I always draw upon these events in sometimes the most unlikely of times.
I have found the most inspiration in Iceland’s Northern region. In some cases, this is by chance, like the poem about an encounter above or the majesty of a rainbow over Goðafoss at sunrise; it seems Iceland’s north speaks to my heart the most.
I wanted to feature a special place in this post: the little, unassuming town of Húsavík. A city that I discovered during a visit last summer and one that I return to time and time again.
In Húsavík, I saw my first whale in the wild and experienced a familiar calling to my old life. One spent as a little girl on fishing boats with my dad, the scent of the sea wafting around me as we sailed into the sunset.
In these moments, standing on the docks in Húsavík, I feel a tugging on my heartstrings, a disappointment perhaps, that I never pursued a life that involved sailing or boats. Or maybe it a reminiscent of a former life or the generations before me who sailed into unknown waters in search of a better life.
So here are some of my best recommendations if you venture North to Húsavík. Who knows what may call to you while you are there, an old heartbreak, the spirit of the whales, or perhaps another life long forgotten at sea.
Húsavík – Gem of the North
Tucked inside Iceland’s northern region is the charming little fishing town of Húsavík.
Húsavík is located on the northeast coast of Iceland on the shores of Skjálfandi Bay. It’s northeast of Akureyri, a popular cruise destination for Iceland’s North region.
Húsavík means “bay of the houses,” derived from a legend about a Swedish man named Garðar Svavarsson who wintered in Iceland in 870 AD.
Húsavík. is one of Iceland’s oldest settlements and is historically significant. Around 2,500 residents live there, and this quaint town occasionally comes alive with festivals, concerts, and other events.
Although Akureyri is a lovely city with plenty to do, I prefer a stay in Húsavík. for a quieter, more laid-back stay. If you choose to base your stay in this lovely little town, read on to learn more about what to do and my top recommendation is for an unforgettable stay!
Top Recommendation for a cozy and unforgettable stay
Kaldbok’s Cottages – A stay tucked inside nature
When I booked a stay in Húsavík I chose Kaldbok’s Cottages. Although I was in the camper van, I needed a break for a few nights during a very long trip. This was during a summer trip where I was circumnavigating Iceland for the third time.
Although I enjoy exploring Iceland by camper van ( it does afford you a ton of flexibility!), I sometimes crave a place to unwind for a few nights.
As soon as I arrived at Kaldbok’s I was very pleased with my choice. Not only was the cottage clean, and adorable, but there were hot pots within walking distance, nature paths, beautiful views, and the option to have a homemade breakfast delivered to my door in the morning!
That first night I took a stroll down to the dock and watched the sunset and captured this image you see below.
The next day I embarked on my first whale watching excursion with North Sailing followed by a visit to the Whale Museum. I spent that evening walking the nature paths around the cottages and soaking in the hot pots on site.
I would love to return for stay here, especially in the winter time when the nights are extra cozy and the mountain views even more majestic!
Furthermore the cottages are family owned and the service was exceptional!
Highlights of my stay at Kaldbok’s
- Nature paths
- Gorgeous sunrise and sunset views
- Daily homemade breakfast delivered to your door
- Panoramic views of the mountain peaks
- Use of small row boats and dock
- Several hot pots tucked in nature on location
- Adorable cottage with a front patio that faces the mountains
Book a stay at Kaldbok’s Cottages here
Top activity in Húsavík
With Húsavík being the whale-watching capital of Iceland, it is no surprise that my favorite activity is embarking on a whale-watching sail with North Sail! You can see up to 23 whale species in or around the Skjálfandi bay, including blue whales.
I have sailed with North Sailing three times and have spotted humpback whales, porpoises, seals, and various sea birds! After touring with a few whale-watching companies in Iceland, I had the best experience with North Sailing. The scenery was stunning, the booking experience was accommodating, and the staff was top-notch!
Furthermore your excusrion will take place on a wooden sail boat, an authentic schooner to give you a real “viking” like experience on the ocean.
North Sailing also offers flexible booking and excellent communication regarding any changes to the sail, such as sea conditions. Remember that sail may be subject to cancellation or move to another location due to sea conditions or weather. Although this can be disappointing, North Sailing offers several options to rebook or refund your ticket if you paid ahead.
Another thing that stood out to me was how much North Sailing advocates for the whales. They offer silent whale watching to minimize a carbon footprint and spend extensive time during the sail educating the attendees about the whales and how to advocate to end whaling practices. At the end of the excursion they explain the importance of whale watching and pass around a petition that you can sign to help end whaling for good in Iceland.
Not only do you see these beautiful creatures but you leave feeling good knowing you made a difference in their safety and future.
The onboard crew is stellar. Typically, there are two crewmembers: one looking for whales and the other an educator with a microphone. The captains are highly experienced and do their best to find the whales, turning the boat so that everyone can see while maintaining a respectful distance.
Seeing one of these gentle giants in their habitat, free and unbound, is a life-changing experience you will never forget!
Bonus to sail with North Sailing: Delicious cinnamon buns and hot chocolate on deck to warm you up on the sail.
Tips for your whale-watching adventure:
Dress warm. North Sailing will provide you with a warm suit and waterproof trench coat for the journey! I wore water-wicking hiking pants, boots ( shoes with tread are best because the boat docks can be slippery!), a hat, warm socks, gloves, a wool baselayer, and a wool sweater.
Be sure to check the weather on the day of your trip to plan what to wear! After purchasing your ticket online, you will arrive at North Sailing in downtown Husavik ( across from the wooden church). Parking is limited in the small lot out front, but there is free parking around Husavik on the side streets. When you arrive, you will check into reception, where you will be issued a ticket to board your boat. If the waters are rough, you will be informed and may have the option to reschedule!
If you plan to photograph with a camera, bring spare batteries, a lens cloth, and a camera jacket if you have one. The gear provided by North Sailing has plenty of storage pockets for extras, but don’t forget to check your pockets before you return them! Also, golden hour or early morning is best for photography, so book a ticket for those times!
Treat yourself to a soak at Geosea
Nothing says Icelandic culture more than a hot soak in one of the country’s hot springs. Popular spas in Iceland’s more traveled regions, such as the Blue Lagoon, tend to get crowded. However, you will notice the crowds thinning as you travel North.
This is what I enjoyed about visiting the North region the most. Besides the beautiful scenery and friendly people, the attractions are much less crowded, allowing space and a more relaxing feeling when exploring.
Geosea is the newest geothermal in Húsavík. After days of driving a camper van, feeling cold, battling the wind, and struggling to find a campground with hot water, I could not resist a soak at this hot spring!
Geosea offers visitors a chance to unwind in the therapeutic hot springs while taking in a gorgeous view of the Atlantic. I visited on a windy day during one of Iceland’s coldest summers, so I kept myself submerged up to my shoulders.
It also appeared to have more locals than some other spas I have visited, giving it a laid-back feel while offering an upscale setting.
The water was warm, the scenery was gorgeous, and the fellow bathers were low-key. It was a relaxing experience. I recommend it if you are in the area.
A perfect day in Húsavík includes a morning sail with North Sailing, a visit to the Whale Museum, and a soak!
Book ahead with Geosea here.
Other things to do in Húsavík:
- Photograph the wooden church Húsavíkurkirkja, built-in 1907. The church is located on the main street across from North Sailing.
- Visit the Whale Museum for an in-depth and touching look at whales. It features a 22-meter-long skeleton of a blue whale, which was educational, moving, and enjoyable. In addition to whale skeletons, the museum offers plenty of information regarding whale evolution and their role on our planet. Visitors can also watch a short film on the impact of the whaling industry.
- Husavik Museum, which features permanent folk and maritime exhibitions
- Take a drive and explore the Diamond Circle, Dettifoss waterfall, Hólmatungur, and Hafragilsfoss waterfall.
Let me know if you are planning a trip to Húsavík or if you have been there before and what you enjoyed about your stay!
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