Welcome to Hrísey, the little island with a very thin veil and where the air is perfumed by the unseen as they welcome you into their calming embrace.
Hrísey is an island in northern Iceland. Hugged by the picturesque Eyjarfjordur, this gem remains a lesser-known destination in the land of fire and ice.
A bird sanctuary, Hrísey is paradise for those seeking tranquility and a connection with nature.
I have the pleasure of residing on Hrísey for a bit now. The days are simple in comparison to every day life back home, but more fulfilling.
The following is a collection of my photographs and reflections from my special days here.
In this quaint island of the north, there lies a melancholy that begs to be remembered. It is a longing for times forgotten, a soul’s past, a far-distant memory. Like the highest mountain peak, it cannot be touched; it only exists in distinct beauty.
A walk in Hrísey will return you to your soul.
You will notice your pace slowing with each step as the landscape tugs at your senses. The rich scent of the rolling moors fills the air as the Guillemots’ call echo a haunting song. At sunrise, yellow light frames a picturesque fjord amongst a pink sky, while at sunset, the landscape quiets to a still blue.
Everywhere you look, scenery begs you to linger, and a sense of calmness renews your soul.
There is an innocence about this place. After a fresh snowfall, it appears even more pure as the moors turns golden to snow-white.
Along the way, curious ptarmigans will greet you with their sweet waddle as the redwings’ song and occasional fluttering call of the Common Snipe serenade the forests.
Regardless of your path, you will encounter Yggdrasill, a sculpture representing the Nine Realms of Norse Mythology. It is symbolic of the connection between all things.
If you take the red path, it will lead you to another scene. The dirt trail winds between scrubby brush and grassy mounds along a rocky cliffside where waves crash against the shoreline in musical splendor. The scent of the air turns from sweet to pungent, and the bird song changes from melodic to the sharp cry of gulls.
Take a moment to stand still and face north. Allow your breath to flow easily as you reach with your heart. If you linger long enough the ocean’s rhythm will lull you to sleep.
Here, you will feel like you are standing between worlds, at the edge of a new self and possibilities. I imagine it is the same feeling the settlers felt when sailing to new land; nothing but a blank canvas of hopes and dreams ahead.
Watch the harlequin ducks play in the surf and the curious Fulmars soar past.
Along your journey around Hrísey, you will encounter Kaldbakur (one with a cold back), a mountain peak visible from the southeast coastline. There are benches here, or if you prefer, further up the trail, there is a tree log you can sit on.
Here, you will find a source of energy, especially around sunrise or sunset, where the sky around the mountain glows distinctive colors. Open your heart to receive here and allow the mountain to speak to you. Do not be surprised if you see something unexplained and beautiful around the mountain peak. This is a message that you are where you belong.
No matter where you are from, realize on Hrísey that you have arrived home in your unique way.
To reach Hrísey you must take a ferry from Árskogssandur, a 30 min drive from Akureyri. From Reykjavik domestic airport you can take a flight to Akureyri and then the 78 bus from the Cultural Center to the road which leads to the ferry. Taxis are avialable at the airport to take you to the bus stop. Be prepared to walk about 1 km the ferry.
The ferry is a 15 minute ride to Hrísey and you can book your ticket here.
In 2021, my journey to write my first novel took me to Iceland. I was fascinated with the myths and the sagas. Since then, I have returned to the country ten times, even delivering a talk on Nordic Mythology at Midgard Base Camp. As my travels continue, I realize my personal story is developing. Reminiscent of a novel, Iceland gifted me with a plot twist that has enriched my life beyond words. Like the volcanic landscapes, lively winds, and glaciers that shape the landscapes here, the land of fire and ice has done the same for me.
May your wanderings be lucky enough to take you here.
