Iceland is a landscape that’s alive, ever changing and where nature is completely in charge.
Feist
For the last few days many are anxiously watching as events unfold on the little island that stole my heart. A new eruption is imminent and once again, Iceland may demonstrate how she earned the title “The Land of Fire and Ice.” For the past week, unprecedented seismic activity has rocked the Reykjanes peninsula calling for an evacuation of the town Grindavìk, as well as temporary closure of Iceland’s most popular tourist destination, The Blue Lagoon.
Several days ago a magma tunnel was confirmed to be forming under Grindavìk with scientists speculating an eruption was imminent. This eruption is part of the Fagradalsfjall volcanic system, which spans an area 5 km wide and 16 km long between Svartsengi and Krysuvìk.
Fagradalsfjall made the news when it erupted in March of 2021 and broke records as it continued to marvel us with its beauty for six months. It was a photographer’s dream as people flocked to capture its beauty via drone, camera, helicopter ride, or just by foot. It was the “thing to do” in Iceland and I was lucky enough to do that thing. In July of 2022, Fagradalsfjall put on another spectacular display to its north with the “Litli Hrutur” eruption that lasted only a month. Although short, it’s magnificence left enough lasting impression for Icelanders and tourists all around the globe.
Unfortunately this “impending” eruption does not promise to be as “people friendly.” Fagradalsfjall once again takes center stage as the world watches in anticipation, this little island that always reminds us how powerful nature is.
The People’s Volcano
When I Fell In Love With The Icelandic People
I will never forget the day I witnessed the Fagradalsfjall eruption in 2021. Known as the “people’s volcano,” it became a popular attraction on an Iceland itinerary due to its accessibility. Pictures of Icelanders donning their best lopapeysu while casually watching a volcano erupt, circulated all over social media. It was if they were all saying, “This is my home, Iceland. She is harsh and unruly but we embrace her, and we are not going anywhere!”
Read the book How Iceland Changed The World by Egill Bjarnason and you will learn some of Iceland’s most historically significant moments and why I feel the Icelandic people are some of the most resilient and adventurous people I know. (Disclaimer: I may be a bit biased) This book also highlights Iceland’s rich volcanic history and the impacts these eruptions have made all around the globe.
It was my first trip to Iceland and my second day that I decided to hike to see Iceland’s new gem. The hike was not particularly challenging, but boasted just enough climb to test my post flight legs. There were two paths to view the volcano but unfortunately the closer path had been closed due for safety reasons, which left the only option of path B.
Path B began as a relatively tame uphill, but then transitioned to a short but steep climb to a ridge. It was a gloomy day and a dense fog had settled. I was struggling to keep pace with a group of locals, barely able to see the person in front of me due to poor visibility. It felt as if we were hiking forever with no volcano in site. At one point I considered turning around, beginning to think there was no viewpoint.
On the way, I marveled over the groups of entire families hiking together. For Icelanders this was the Sunday thing to do, and I found this to be exceptionally charming. Perhaps this is when I first fell in love with the Icelandic people. At one point I slowed to observe an elder couple following their grandchildren traverse across a rocky section with caution. One big family on their way to watch a live volcano. Where else would you see that but Iceland?!
Like I stated, I almost gave up, convinced this was a tourist trap, or that somehow I ended up on the wrong trail, but then I heard it. It began as a strange whirring sound, then deepened as I drew closer. It sounded as if someone was cranking the world’s largest motor to action.
“What is that,” I asked the woman in front of me, who was clearly in better condition than I. Panting from exertion, I stopped beside her, while she looked as if we had just arrived at the trailhead. “It is the volcano,” she replied with a half smile. And then she pointed ahead.
Just a few more steps and we emerged from the thickest fog I had ever seen in my life. It reminded me of what Niflheim ( the ice realm in Norse Mythology) would look like. On a side note, this is one example of how Iceland has inspired my world building in my fiction works. You can’t get any more otherworldly than here.
In the distance the crater emerged between a gigantic smoke plume. It was an incredible site. A fountain of neon red lava spewed from its gaping mouth before forming rivers which snaked down the valley at impressive speeds. I remember staggering at this point, struggling to keep my eyes on the volcano and find my footing as we descended. I didn’t want to miss a second of this show.
Finally I found my placement, a viewpoint which bordered the cooling jet black magma. The eruption would cease, then at exactly almost seven minutes continue again. My plan was to watch it for a half hour, take some photos, then leave. I stayed for two hours, unable to pull myself away from this awesome display of nature.
I will never forget this day and how grateful I felt to experience this.
Our earth is magnificent and volcanoes are a reminder of the undeniable power it is capable of.
The Latest
Hope remains as Iceland prepares for all scenarios
That epic day was two years ago and as I sit here writing this, my mood is anything but excited. Unfortunately this eruption is speculated to be not as “friendly,” as the priors at Fagradalsfjall which wooed the world. If this goes as projected, it could be catastrophic for surrounding areas, affecting Grindavík and the Svartsengi power plant which supplies power and water to the Reykjanes peninsula. Images of newly formed craters and split roads due to the earthquakes in Grindavík are circulating all over social media.
As this unfolds, I felt I had to write something. After all, how can I sit here in silence as a country I love so much braces itself for a possible catastrophe?
To be honest, I don’t know what to say. If my words could soothe the minds or ease the fear of residents now displaced from their homes, I would say it all. I am no scientist, so I won’t claim to know what will happen. Everything is evolving and changing so rapidly it’s hard to keep up with it all!
There is still activity as I type. According to the lava center in Iceland over 3000 earthquakes have been recorded in the past 48 hours with a main-shock magnitude of 4.4,- 3.4 km of Grindavík. The lava dyke is said to be 4-7 km long beginning at Sundahnjukar in Northeast Grindavík which might get longer and reach the ocean. There is even a small theory the eruption may take place “sub sea,” or the magma may harden, and there would be no eruption. That is the best case scenario.
What I will do is share the links to Jeroen Van Nieuwenhove’s socials and a live webcam. Jeroen is a photographer living in Iceland who has a passion for volcanoes, nature, and Iceland’s landscapes. He has done a fantastic job at covering the latest updates in a way that does not sensationalize or disrespect the situation.
Here are his links:
https://www.instagram.com/jvn.photo/
Live cam: https://jvn.photo/volcano-in-iceland-webcams/
I also highly recommend his book “New Earth” which is a photographic documentary of that beautiful “people’s volcano” that erupted in 2021. The photography is gorgeous and rich with beautiful images that capture the magnificent strength of volcanoes.
New Earth by Jeroen Van Nieuwenhove
Another social worth following is Lava Show (and worth a visit to on your Iceland itinerary!)
https://www.facebook.com/lavashowiceland
I will also be sharing the links to donate to the Iceland’s Red Cross on my socials when it becomes available for non citizens to donate.
You can follow me on Insta at
https://www.instagram.com/anowl_in_iceland/
In closing, I hope that one day when someone reads this they can breathe a sigh of relief knowing this is behind them. For now Iceland sits on the edge of her seat waiting to see what nature will do next. Many of us around the globe sit with you.
My thoughts are you with you Iceland, now and always.
Goða ferð.
Your friend from the United States.
