The Arctic Henge

Be whisked away in mystery and magic in one of Iceland’s most remote and holiest destinations…

At the most northern tip of the continent, in the quiet, isolated town of Rauforhöfn, stands atop a hill, the Arctic Henge. The first time I saw a photograph of this place, I just had to see it.

The Arctic Henge is more than just the picture-perfect place to capture a geometric photograph or the Northern Lights; it is also a holy sundial dedicated to the old manuscript known as Völuspa or Prophecy of the Seeress. Völuspa is the first part of the Poetic Edda, a collection of anonymous narrative poems that narrate the creation and destruction of the Old Norse mythological world and individual myths concerning the gods and goddesses.

In Völuspa, an unnamed seer delivers the prophecy of the nine realms to the Norse god Odin. Here we clearly describe how the worlds were formed and how they will end. In this transcript, the seer names the first dwarves, beings believed to be the most talented smiths in the cosmos.

The first stanza of Völuspa reads:

Heed my words all classes of men
You, greater and lesser children of Heimdall
You summoned me here, Odin,
To tell of what I recall
Of the oldest deeds of gods and men, Völuspa Stanza 1 trans. By J. Crawford

My Incredible Experience

Call it luck or fate, but this is what happened. I have searched for the Northern Lights in Iceland for several years, but never got lucky. One day, I had a feeling I would never see them anywhere because I was meant to see them at the Arctic Henge. I saw photographs of this, and it looked so unbelievable. Greens and blues stage the winter night sky as the perfect contrast for these beautiful stone formations. How lucky are these people to capture the aurora in such a location?

On my recent trip to Iceland, I decided to drive to the henge one day after visiting Asbyrgi Canyon. I was tired and hungry and not feeling up to it, but something told me to go. When I arrived, I was disappointed to see many people taking photographs. After a long day, I desired alone time, so I waited until sunset and returned up the hill with blankets.

I sat in the center of the installation for a while, deep in thought and watching the sky. Eventually, I began to see what appeared to be the first aurora, a deep green moving behind the curtain of the night sky. I was in disbelief. Was this just my imagination fueled by hope and a silly premonition?

Shivering from exhaustion and cold, I returned to my van, where I brewed some Icelandic moss tea and continued to watch. Then it happened. The sky danced green. I flung the door to my van open and ran up the hill as fast as possible, crying, recording, and screaming. My coat was undone, my shoe laces were untied, and my gloves dangled from my numb hands, but I did not care. I could not believe what I was seeing. There she was in all her radiance. The green lady was dancing as bright as ever. I couldn’t tell if I was more awestruck or in disbelief that somehow, I had known this phenomenon would happen at this very place and time. Maybe it was just luck or coincidence, but I think it was fate.

History

So, when did these mysterious formations come about?

Unlike Stonehenge, the Arctic Henge is a newer installation still in progress. Haukur Halldorsson first conceived this idea in 1998 and finalized it in 2004. Haukur’s vision was to use endless vistas free of obstructions on the horizon and the midnight sun. Rauforhöfn was the perfect location.

The Arctic Henge is fifty meters in diameter and has a six-meter-high gait that faces each direction: North, East, South, and West. Inside the gate is a high wall with a small opening at the top. Inside the circle is a 10-meter-high column on four pillars. The column will eventually be topped with cut prism glass that splits up the midnight sun into primary colors. Like a traditional sundial, the play of light and shadow will coordinate with the time of day.

According to a local I spoke with that day, finances have stalled its development, but when finished, it is believed to become a place of pilgrimage for those who follow the old gods from all over the world. As far as I could see, it felt perfect—a place of peace and refuge for those seeking a connection with what we cannot see.

As Far As The Dwarves…

There is no real explanation to the named dwarfs in Völuspa besides Austri (East), Vestri (West), Norðri (North), and Suðri (South). According to my research, the remaining names have been connected to seasons and it is speculated they are associated with the yearly circle of 72 weeks. This becomes a kind of almanac where each dwarf controls a five-day period.

How To Get There

From Husàvik

There are two ways to reach it from Husàvik. The first is a 149 km drive that takes you along the coast. There is some beautiful scenery this way. From Husàvik, you will head North on Heðinsbraut toward Höfdavegur. Continue straight on Norðausturvengur Route 870. You will eventually reach Rauforhöfn. Drive through the town, and you will begin to see the Arctic Henge to your left on a hill. You can park there for free and walk up to the monuments.

Due to high winds near the coast, I opted to cut inland to the Höfaskarðsleid, then turned left onto Norðuasturvegur (85) to Rauforhöfn.

From Egilstadur (South)

This is a 264 km drive that will take about three hours or more, depending on stops. Head NW on Þjodvegur towards Selas. Stay on Þjodvegur for 81km until you reach Norðausturvegur for 48 km. Turn left and follow Noðausturvegur (Route 85) for 67 km. Turn left to continue on Norðausturvegur for 47km. Turn right to follow Norðausturvegur for the last 20 km into Rauforhöfn. Turn left onto Arctic Henge Road.

Rauforhöfn

This most northern little town once dominated the herring industry in Iceland, and in the forties and fifties was home to the most significant export harbor. It is located on the Melákkásletta peninsula. It was a central fish processing station in the mid-twentieth century.

Planning Your Visit

This is a long day trip and requires much driving to reach, but it is worth it. I would suggest planning a full day for those on a ring road adventure. A campsite in Rauforhöfn, not too far from the henge itself, offers bathrooms and showers and can be reserved via the Parka app. I visited in the evening, and when I arrived around sunset, there were still people there taking photographs, so if your desire is to have some solitude, you may want to consider waiting until after sunset (where you may still find some Northern light seekers) or arrive early in the morning before nine o’clock.

Know Before You Go

As always check weather and road conditions via vedur.is before you embark on your drive. There are a few stops for fuel and food on the way, so be prepared. Bring blankets and warm clothing if you desire to spend some time outside. During the day, you can expect more visitors, maybe just a few Aurora hunters and photographers in the evening. If you arrive in the morning and see an older gentleman taking his daily walk up the hill, tell him I said hello. 🙂