“Þeim var eg verster eg unni mest.”
-Laxdæla Saga
A last-minute decision prompts me to visit the grave of Iceland’s leading saga lady and my saga heroine- Guðrún Osvifrsdóttir.
It was December of 2021 when Iceland’s past began to whisper to me. Following my first trip around the little island that summer, I was smitten and couldn’t wait much longer to return. I desired to book a winter trip, and, like many others, yearned to see the Northern Lights.
Pictures of dancing green skies and exploding auroras filled my Instagram feed, enticing me to return. Like many others, I soon discovered there is more to Iceland in the winter than the Green Lady and that her history is just as thought-provoking.
When I think back, I realize that if I had witnessed the aurora on that trip, I might not have booked another one. I always say Iceland has a funny way of holding one thing back from me, as if she is saying, no, you must return one more time to experience this.
Now it is puffins, but now she gives me many more reasons to return. Lately, I have been forging friendships there that make boarding the plane at Keflavik even more painful. I am tired of crying in that airport; these detachment pains only worsen.
During my visit to Mr Iceland, the owner, Hordur, consoled me by saying, “You have to learn how to take this feeling you have here.” I haven’t figured out how to do that yet, but I book a plane ticket back the day I arrive home, which seems to help a little.
Back to the winter of 2021, on the intriguing peninsula known as Iceland Miniature.
That December, I booked a stay at a little cottage on the mystical Snæfellnes Peninsula in Western Iceland. Snæfellnes, known as Iceland Miniature, is a beautiful gem, rich in dramatic landscapes, folklore, and history.
Home to one of the largest Celtic settlements in Iceland, saga sites, and breathtaking scenery, Snæfellnes is a storybook on its own, boasting some of the country’s most bizarre and exciting history.
Desire to venture into a gorge haunted by a half-troll, half-man? Head to Rauðfeldsgjá gorge, Snæfellnes. Or what about a walk through one of the most intriguing rock formations along the sea, rich with elf folklore? Head to Arnastapi in Snæfellnes! Or how about a day hike across one of Iceland’s most significant lava fields, believed to have been the “gate” to the ancestors? Head to Buðir Church and the lava field. And yes, I believe this old folktale because after I hiked this lava field, I dreamt I was walking across it with my mother, who had passed twenty years ago. Incredible!
Nevertheless, on your Iceland itinerary, I highly recommend a two-day or more stopover in this exciting part of the country. You won’t regret it!
My reasoning for staying there was simple. I wanted to be away from the city lights for maximum aurora viewing chances and have time to explore the scenery around this area.
Little did I know my itinerary would take a strange turn as I discovered the bath of one of Iceland’s most beloved saga leads that was not too far from my stay.
Guðrún Continues to Steal Hearts, Thousands of Years Later
How Iceland’s Leading Saga Lady Stole My Heart
Guðrún Osvifrsdóttir is the only woman to take the lead in an Icelandic Saga. In Laxdæla Saga, she shrewdly navigates her way through medieval Iceland, making waves in the male-dominated society of Iceland’s Settlement period.
Cunning, beautiful, and courageous, Guðrún demonstrates the spirit of a woman in her most trying and vulnerable times. She was the ultimate female who could make even the most challenging decisions, defending her honor with a fierceness that forever left a mark on saga history.
You can read more about her saga in my other entry here.
Her story resonated with me, along with Auð or Unn, the Deep Minded, who opens the Saga by orchestrating the strategic marriages of her grandchildren before dying mysteriously on the night of her grandson’s wedding.
I highly recommend the Laxdæla Saga for anyone who desires to read one of Iceland’s most romantic sagas, led by a woman way ahead of her time. I bet you will be just as intrigued with Guðrún, or one of her four husbands!
Back to my experience…
Guðrúnlaugur
A historical hot spring
During my winter trip at Snæfellnes, I ventured North to Erik Staðir, home to the once hot-tempered Icelandic explorer. Not too far from there, I discovered Guðrunlaugur, the reconstructed hot spring where Guðrún Osvifrsdóttir spent her time many years ago.
I was alone, which was a rarity this spring. It is set atop a hill behind the hotel Dalahótel, overlooking the Sælingdalur valley. Framed with gorgeous cliffsides and a small waterfall, the spring at the right time is one of the most peaceful places I have been to Iceland.
The hotel recently aquired new owners, and they were very welcoming! There is a campground there, and with a camping reservation, you can use the showers and pool in the hotel. Due to the soft grass from the snow, I had to camp in the parking lot near the start of the short trail to the hot springs.
The path to the springs is short and uphill with a slight foot bridge. At the springs there is a small changing house for modesty.
Soaking there, I imagined Guðrún with her first love, Kjartan. I wondered what kind of conversations they had late into the midnight sun as the loá sang her sweet song from the sweeping green fields beside them.
Perhaps she, too, had moments there alone, deep in thought, reflecting on the many prophetic dreams she had experienced. I wondered what decisions she had made there or what desires floated through her heart as she stared at the distant mountain peaks, the sun rising in scarlet splendor.
Sometimes, I wonder if Guðrún, who made such a strong impression in the valley, remains there somehow. Even though her physical self is long gone from this place, her spirit still rides her steed across the green hillsides. Perhaps her first love, Kjartan, is at her side.
If you desire, up the road from the springs is the elf church Tungastapi. This is about a fifteen-minute walk from the hotel. Walk to the end of the road from the hotel (you will pass over a bridge.), make a left onto a quiet country road, and you will see the church on your right-hand side. This is the site of one of Iceland’s most eerie elf stories.
I left the springs that day obsessed with uncovering more about her, and I wonder if this is because Guðrún remains etched in those waters forever.
Repeated Returns
Guðrúnlaug takes hold of me
Since then, I have returned to Guðrúnlaug many times. No visit to Iceland feels complete without a stop here. One day, I ventured into the valley and stumbled upon a small waterfall within a gorge. I stayed there for some time, eating fresh blueberries that grew along the river bank and reimagining the saga.
During my Iceland research, I discovered Guðrún’s grave and made a pact to visit it. Her grave was said to be located at Helgafell, or “holy mountain,” which is also an old temple to the Norse god Þor. The folktale states that if one walks up Helgafell in silence and doesn’t turn back, three wishes you make at the top will be granted.
Unfortunately, several trips to Iceland did not allow time for me to venture to its location until this last trip when I least expected to be there.
This past April, I arrived in Iceland with a dark cloud over me. Last year, I departed with an unpleasant experience on my mind, and I grew worried that this would sever my relationship with this beloved country.
My friend graciously picked me up at the airport and offered me her home for my first night to recharge and spend some time with her. The next day, I planned to pick up my camper and head to the West Fjords for the first Icelandic Festival of Sorcery and Witchcraft.
While I mapped out the route, I noticed Stykkhisholmur, where Helgafell was on the way. Plans changed, and I arrived at Snæfellnes campground just in time for a blinding snow squall. Helgafell would have to wait.
Stykkisholmur is a picturesque, eco-conscious fishing town on Breiðafjörður Bay. Despite being a small town, it is action-packed with many activities for nature lovers, such as sea kayaking and bird watching.
You can sail from here on the Baldur Ferry to the West Fjords. I will be stopping here again on my next visit!
That evening, the weather cleared enough to allow for a short hike to the Súgandisey lighthouse in the small town of Stykkisholmur. The scenery of the nearby fjord, Breiðafjörður, was stunning! I highly recommend this hike during sunrise or sunset for some epic photographs!
The following day, I left the campground early to head to Helgafell. Helgafell is a small mountain on a farm that requires a donation to hike. When you arrive, you will see this small arch you must walk through to begin the hike.
At the start of the hike, Gudrun’s famous quote is engraved in a stone when her son asks her which of her four loves she has loved the most.
This quote loosely translates to “Him I treated worst, I loved the most.” Many believe she was referring to Kjartan.
The hike to the top is short and not technical. However, on this day, a fair amount of ice remained on the path, which made the ascent a bit tricky. Remember, you must not turn around or speak during your hike, so I was determined to make it to the top with my three wishes.
I slipped. I clawed. I scratched my way to the top. Halfway through, I wondered if I would be forced to turn back due to the ice. That simply was not an option!
Following one sketchy scramble, I arrived at the top, looking over the vast scenery surrounding me. To the left were the snow-capped mountains, which glowed gold in the early morning sun. At the very top is a small rock wall enclosure where you can sit to escape the wind.
I stood there and thought, wow, I am standing on an old temple to Þor. This is incredible. When I made my three wishes, it was magical. I thought about how many wishes had been whispered, and now my three would join them.
After admiring the scenery in complete silence, I descended the mountain. At one point, I had to slide down the path on my butt, but I can imagine this is a straightforward path during the summer, averaging about ten minutes each way.
If you hike this mountain, remember the rules. Do it in silence; don’t turn back, and don’t tell anyone your wishes. Even better, be sure to pass on the story to others. The world needs to preserve these stories. It gives us faith.
I continued on past the mountain down a private road. A church sat at the end, with a small graveyard around it.
This is it, I thought; her grave must be here. I searched frantically around the cemetery, checking each headstone for her name. There was no Guðrún. How could this be? Some headstones were so weathered it was challenging to read the names. I cringed each time I had to kneel beside one, whispering an apology to the soul which rested in the grave.
To the far right of the graveyard, I noticed one headstone set aside from the others. It was enclosed within a small white fence, and right away, I recognized it as the one I had seen during my research. I found her!
The roses I had accidentally bumped into at Bonus while grocery shopping yesterday came to mind. I wished I had bought them to leave here, but I hadn´t considered it.
Then I remembered I had something even more special. A small seashell someone had gifted me last year. This person admired Laxdæla just as much as I did. It made sense to leave it there. I reached into my pocket and placed the seashell behind the gravestone in a safe spot, sheltered by grass. It was all I had to offer, but it was more memorable than cut roses from the store.
Even though I had made my three wishes, I left with one more. Maybe one day I will write Guðrún’s story.
On my way back from the West Fjords, I stopped at Gudrunlaugur to complete the journey.
The Cloud is Lifted
My worries disintegrate like magic
As I have said before in this blog, there were many things during my visits to Iceland that I could not explain. My interest in Guðrún is one, but even more so is how the dark cloud I had arrived with parted once I left this place.
Despite this unpleasant experience I had dragged with me here, nothing or no one could sever my connection to Iceland. It is as intimate as the deepest of friendships and stronger than time itself allows.
No matter how long, I would always return here, each time taking hold even tighter of those long-forgotten memory threads, weaving new ones as I go. This was Iceland to me, and no one could ever convince me otherwise.
As far as this magical connection I have, I believe we are all capable of this. If you read my last blog, The Magic of Mr Iceland, you will understand how much richer life becomes when you open your heart to magic.
Magic could be many things, and if you wonder if it’s real, ask yourself this;
Have you ever made a wish? If you have, then my friend, you believe in magic.
I continued my trip with a lighter heart and the same awe I had when I arrived on this little island three years ago. Iceland wasn’t going to let me go that easily.
If you are interested in reading more about Guðrúnlaugur, you can check out my blog piece here.
You can purchase a copy of The Icelandic Sagas from Penguin House here.
Next is “Standing Among a Giant, My Adventure To The Top of Iceland’s Most Notorious Glacier Volcanoes…”
