Journeying to the top of one of Iceland’s more notorious volcanoes with Midgard Adventure was a dream come true!
Alone it’s just a journey. Now adventures, they must be shared.”
-JRR Tolkien
I will never forget the first time I set eyes on a glacier. It was July of 2021. I had set out on a hiking adventure above the Skógarfoss waterfall in Southern Iceland.
I had no idea I was trekking on the iconic Fimmvörðuhals trail, a 25-km footpath that stretches from Skógar to Þórsmörk, (Thor’s Valley). I saw a path, and I took it. Prepared for anything (layers, rain jacket, first aid, compass, and radio), I looked ahead with the enthusiasm of a small child discovering something new. Every turn revealed something even more beautiful than the last, and I was awed by the landscape.
It was as if I had opened the cover of a fairy tale book and landed right into the opening scene.
The sun was shining. Rows of waterfalls greeted me along the way, each more majestic than the next. Sheep grazed impassively among fields of emerald green grass. Colorful rock columns lined the gorges beside the path. There was no sound besides my footsteps and the occasional sweet song of the lòa bird.
Several kilometers in, I stopped for a short rest break. Some clouds settled on the horizon, lending to the dramatic flair of the landscape. I stood on a cliff’s edge looking west. That was when the clouds broke to reveal the glacier, and I believe I dropped to my knees. I was so awestruck by it.
It was my first time seeing a glacier, and I will never forget how enamored I was by its sight. This was Myrdalsjökull. Beneath it is the sleeping giant Katla volcano. I took no pictures because I knew no image could do this justice. No photograph could ever capture this moment because of what I felt.
I was entranced by the glacier, and this awe continued as I traveled through the rest of Iceland via the infamous ring road. If my GPS said a destination would take one hour, I allowed for two because I knew I would find many scenes along the way to admire.
I eventually saw the Eyjafjallajökull glacier up close during my first hiking tour in Þórsmörk, with Midgard Adventure in 2022.
I remember looking at the top of Eyjafjallajökull and asking my guide how to get there. He responded that it was a special trip, and this desire stuck in my mind. I knew I would one day. That day arrived, and it was everything I had imagined.
Eyjafjallajökull – The drama queen of volcanoes
The tongue-twister Eyjafjallajökull ( island—mountain—glacier) is a subglacial volcano in southern Iceland. Part of the Katla volcano system, Eyjafjallajökull, or E-volcano, caused mass delays in European flights when it erupted in 2010. It is a small volcano but no less dramatic, spewing over 500 tons of ash per second from its crater when it erupted in 2010! That’s enormous!
E- volcano stumped newscasters with its pronunciation, eventually adopting the nickname E15 or E- volcano. The glacier is visible from the lookout point during a Þórsmörk, hike or from the other side on a Sólheimajökull glacier hike as well as from the ring road. How do I pronounce this? Simply say, “Hey- I forgot- my yogurt,” and you are close, or “ei-ya-fyat-LA-yer-kitle.”
Eyjafjallajökull is not alone in Þorsmork. She is accompanied by her neighbors, the notorious Katla, which lies beneath the Myrdalsjökull glacier, and the shrinking Tindafjallajökull glacier. All three are located within Þórsmörk, making it a unique part of the Icelandic highlands to visit.
For more on Þórsmörk, see my Þórsmörk, post here. This is a must-do for an Iceland itinerary and is best explored by a guided hike or Super Jeep.
Now, onto the exhilarating Eyjafjallajökull journey.
To The Top of The Volcano We Go
This past April, I arrived in Iceland for the seventh time in three years with few plans. Following the Icelandic Festival for Sorcery and Witchcraft in Hólmavik, I journeyed south to exchange my camper for a rental Jeep Renegade. I made my way to Midgard Base Camp, aka my home away from home.
I was staying at Midgard Base Camp, which has cozy accommodations in Hvolsvöllur. This hostel offers guests a welcoming Scandinavian-style stay and is also the starting point for tours operated by Midgard Adventure and the location of Midgard Restaurant.
If you stay there, I highly recommend the breakfast buffet and Arctic Char for dinner! Do not skip out on the Hjónabandssæla (Happy Marriage Cake) for breakfast. It is my favorite and baked by the warmest, welcoming staff member, Gina, aka Coookiesand_cakes!
I booked my first tour with Midgard Adventure in 2021 to see Þórsmörk. Since then, I have returned many times to tour with them. Base Camp feels like a home away from home, and I am fortunate enough to call Midgard my friends. Midgard has changed my life in many ways, and a blog post on the way about this will warm your heart!
When my friend Raggi, a guide for Midgard, texted me asking if I would like to join them for a super jeep to the top of Eyjafjallajökull, I squealed.
“Do you even need to ask?” I replied. It would be Raggi’s first time driving to the top, and this was a tour offered by Midgard Adventure. How even more exciting!!
Now, let’s journey to the top of Eyjafjallajökull!
The Journey To The Top Of A Volcano
That morning, I filled up on a breakfast buffet with oatmeal and grabbed a slice of Hjónabanndsæla for the road. Due to melting snow, there were some concerns that we would not reach the top, but I had faith!
The glacier’s location is surprisingly mild in climate compared to the rest of southern Iceland. The weather was promising, with clear blue skies and plentiful sunshine. But this is Iceland, so one never knows when the weather may change.
I dressed in layers, which I always recommend when adventuring into the Highlands. I wore a wool baselayer, a pair of weatherproof hiking pants by Fjallraven (hint: shop for last year’s models for sale prices!), a thermal zip-up jacket, wool socks, and sturdy hiking boots. Besides my camera equipment, my day pack always contained a Patagonia Nana Puff jacket and lopapeysu (Icelandic wool sweater).
Raggi brought along “power suits” for each of us just in case the temperatures dropped at the top of the glacier. I was nervous about this as I run colder than the average person, so I like to pack extra layers and hand warmers just in case! Who wants their outdoor adventure cut short because you are shivering cold or can’t feel your hands? Not me!
Outside of Base Camp, three super jeeps outfitted with specialized tires and suspension systems to handle the rugged terrain awaited us.
The journey began with a bumpy ride through lava fields, but no less beautiful. The Icelandic lava fields always thrill me. As variable as they are attractive, this one was an interesting contrast of emerald green moss and black lava rock. Any remaining snow on the lower altitudes made for an even more exciting color scheme.
The climb began soon into our adventure.
A few minutes in, I was hanging out of the window, taking pictures and saying wow. The Icelandic highlands are remarkable. It was the day before Sumnurdagerinnfystri (the first day of summer), and we were still blessed with vibrant blue skies and plentiful sunshine. We couldn’t have asked for better conditions!
It wasn’t long before we hit the deep snow. The skies ahead were clear, and the top of the glacier sparkled in glorious splendor like the grand prize awaiting our arrival.
As we gained altitude, the snow grew deep, and our journey slowed. We stopped many times to hop out of the truck to take pictures. The landscape transformed to pure white, a beautiful contrast to the deep blue of the Atlantic in the distance.
As we neared the top, the drive became more arduous. We stopped frequently to assess the terrain and take pictures. There are no roads to the top of the glacier, and guides must rely on instinct and experience to get us there safely.
Although it was Raggi’s first time driving to the top, he handled it like a pro. Our truck was Sleipnir, named after Oðin’s eight-legged steed in Norse mythology. Pictured below, Sleipnir is said to be the best horse in the Nine Realms, and the truck performed like a champion up the glacier, living up to its name!
Finally, we arrived. Outfitted with microspikes, we exited the trucks to look around and just say wow. Besides the breathtaking views of Þórsmörk and the Westman Islands, the silence struck me first. It was as if we were standing at the world’s edge, suspended from all civilization.
There is an impressive ice formation at the top that you can climb to. If you use your imagination, you can see a giant’s features. It reminded me of the story of creation in Norse Mythology. Two realms of fire and ice converge in one cataclysmic event to create the first life. The result is the first being a gigantic frost giant named Ymir who this ice structure I imagined would resemble.
At one point, I walked along the top of the glacier and stood alone to just “take it all in.” In Norse Mythology, volcanoes were associated with the Jotnar, or giants, beings of magic, chaos, and uncontrollable forces of nature.
Standing atop this volcano, you really get a sense of this connection. A heavy and powerful energy lingers here, and if you ever make your way to this icon, take a moment away from everyone to just be in the landscape in silence.
It was a long but rewarding day, complete with a traditional backcountry Icelandic BBQ at the top, where we dined on hot dogs and smash burgers crafted by the ever-talented Adventure Chef.
No trip to Iceland is complete without a hot dog, and despite being a pescatarian, I always indulge in these when I visit. There is a trick to layering the toppings, so be sure to ask an Icelander how to build your hot dog before you make one! All my adventures into the Icelandic backcountry include Icelandic fair, so I always carry a package of Hardfiskur (dried fish), or a Draumur bar to snack on. You can pick it up at any Icelandic convenience store.
During our descent, we caught sight of a lóa bird, which signals the beginning of the Icelandic summer.
With all the excitement, I neglected to launch my drone, instead opting for the solo walk across the glacier. Sometimes, I regret this, wishing I had captured some aerial footage of the top to share. But the moment I had while connecting to the sheer beauty of this place was needed.
People who have never been to Iceland often ask me what it is about the country I am so enamored with.
What began as many years ago as a desire to see the land where my tales were inspired by and photograph waterfalls in the midnight sun became so much more. I often say it is not so much what I see when I visit Iceland, but what I feel when I am here, all five of my senses immersed in the landscape. Some of my most memorable moments in Iceland were simple. Skinny dipping in the Denmark Strait ( the campground showers were closed), witnessing the aurora, laying in a grassy field beside a river bank, or standing atop this glacier are all simple yet powerful moments I will never forget.
In Iceland, there is a saying called “Tillhera,” which means belonging. If your travels take you to Iceland, remember to find stillness to connect with the abundant nature. You will understand this “tillhera” when you do.
I can’t thank Midgard Adventure enough for this experience. I feel genuinely grateful for crossing paths with them two years ago, and I look forward to more adventures with them!
If you want an off-the-beaten-path small group tour with professionals who practice sustainable tourism in places less traveled, this is your guiding company to book with!
You can book a tour to experience this icon up close and personal here.
Or perhaps a hike through Þórsmörk, is your thing, where you can catch a glimpse of this glacier in the distance. I suggest both. The two perspectives give you a unique take on this powerful gem!
Up next: Liberation of the Witch Making History at Iceland’s First Sorcery and Witchcraft Festival
My packing list for your glacier adventure:
- sturdy pair of waterproof ankle high boots
- waterproof jacket
- weatherproof hiking pants
- smart wool layers
- gloves
- buff
- hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen ( the sun can get really strong at the top!)
- warm layer such as packable down jacket or lopapeysu
- medium layer such as technical medium weight top
- camera and extra batteries/ charging dock (the cold drains batteries so be sure to come prepared!)
- drone/ memory cards
- waterproof camera bag or sack to store valuables just in case
- Dramamine if you get car sick (the ride can get bumpy!)
- daypack to store valuables
- Sense of adventure!
