I wanted to photograph Arctic foxes in Iceland and they appeared exactly when and where I didn’t expect them to. How sly of them.
What A Barred Owl Taught Me
A little background of my photography journey
Ever have a moment where you wish would last forever? A moment where you are so immersed in what you are doing everything else disappears? This is the story of mine and how a foursome of foxes helped me find my joy.
For as long I can remember I loved nature photography. I can distinctly recall running down to the pond on my parent’s property in upstate New York to photograph chickadees, my old trusty manual Canon swinging from my shoulder. That camera stayed with me for many years, eventually becoming my familiar as a creative arts major at Fordham University. Those were the “simple” days before the mirrorless lens and AI would revolutionize photography forever. I can still smell the dark room if I close my eyes.
That camera is long gone, replaced now by a digital Canon EOS M50 that I purchased a few years ago which is now always on my person. A barred owl taught me an important lesson in photography; the perfect capture sometimes appears when we least expect it.
During one of my daily forest walks I left my camera home thinking, “There will be nothing interesting to photograph today.” As I rounded the last turn before the trail widens, a barred owl swooped down and perched right next to me as if saying, “I would make an interesting photograph.” Since then I never embark on a forest walk without my camera and I have discovered with the right lighting, everything in the woods can make a great picture, from mushrooms, to salamanders, to ferns. The subjects are limitless.
During a recent Icelandic adventure, the elusive Arctic fox appeared to teach me the same lesson; Photographers can have a plan, but nature never does, but sometimes they do meet to create the perfect capture. They did for me, and it was day I will never forget.
What the Fox?
A few facts about what makes the Arctic fox so special
There are ten subspecies of Arctic fox- who knew? This post talks about the Icelandic Arctic fox, which is Iceland’s only native terrestrial mammal. You can learn more about at the Arctic fox center in Suavik, Iceland, a nonprofit research and exhibition center that I highly recommend a visit. The center focuses on education of the biology and history of the Arctic fox and promotes the participation sustainable wildlife tourism in Iceland. The center also hosts a cafe and adorable gift shop with everything “fox.”
The Arctic fox is highly adaptable and lives in some of the world’s harshest climates. Its diet consists of small mammals, eggs, birds, insects, as well as berries. Their main food source are lemmings and their population fluctuates in response to lemming numbers.
Arctic foxes are keen hunters and can snow dive to hunt lemmings. Lemmings live in complex tunnels underground. When an Arctic fox hears a lemming, they will jump up several feet in the air and dive into the snow to catch it. I witnessed this practice as they grappled over a sheep bone. As an outsider, it was adorable, but for a lemming, I bet it is terrifying!
Arctic foxes have short life spans, usually between 3-4 years in the wild. This is due to food supply or disease.
The Arctic fox can change its fur color to adapt to its surroundings. In the winter, the fur is its iconic snow white, and in the summer months, tan, bluish brown, or charcoal grey like the ones featured in this post.
Plan your visit to the Arctic fox center here /https://www.melrakki.is/
A Stay to Remember
A change in plans leads to a lasting memory
This was my fifth trip to Iceland and I was intent on seeing Arctic foxes. I even booked an excursion to Hornstrandir, the pristine nature preserve in Iceland’s West Fjords in hopes of photographing them.
I did see them, but it happened so fast I had barely enough time to put my coffee mug down and snap a photo. I know what you are thinking, “You just said always be prepared,” but here is some context.
Guided by Borea Adventures, my group had taken a boat and a raft ride, as well as hiked over 10 km through unmarked land. We had just arrived at the only manmade structure that exists on the island, a small farmhouse. I was relaxed, hungry, and a bit tired, so coffee and chocolate were priority, as well as making conversation with my new fellow hiking friends.
When the foxes appeared, I had two options: run and get my camera and miss observing them, or just relax and be. Sometimes we have to just put the camera away and be, and this was one of those moments. I do plan on returning next summer to this exact place for photo ops, as I was a bit disappointed I didn’t get one this time.
Little did I know a change in plans would lead me to them just a few days later at a lovely little farm known as Moðrudalur.
Bliss, Love Balls, and Foxes
How I found my bliss photographing foxes
When you drive around Iceland in a camper van solo you see many things. I prefer exploring this way as it offers me the flexibility to plan as I go and “chase the sun” as many natives do. Following a visit to Stuðagil canyon, I came across an advertisement for Moðrudalur, a farm in Northeast Iceland nestled in the picturesque Odadahraun lava field. Odadahraun is home to Herðubreid, “The Queen,” a table mountain known for its unique shape which is visible from the farm.
The description of Moðrudalur was appealing; peaceful, oasis, sustainable and its charming turf houses sold me. I decided to forgo my original plans and camp there instead. You can read more about Moðrudalur in my entry here:
https://anowliniceland.wordpress.com/2023/09/15/an-unforgettable-oasis-in-icelandic-traditions/
The drive from Stuðagil was an adventure on its own. Winding, steep, gravel roads led me through some of the best scenery I have seen in Iceland. At one point I pulled over at a lookout to be sure I was going the right way. I lingered for a moment to admire the vastness around me. The sun was setting and the sky was spectacular. A canvas of blue, purple, and pink created the perfect backdrop for the distant mountains.
I arrived just as the sun was setting, parked, paid, and was lulled to sleep by the sound of the brook behind the campsite.
The next morning I awoke to another beautiful sight. A thin fog had settled across the lava field, creating an ethereal look to the otherwordly landscape. After brewing a pot of coffee in the turf house kitchen, I decided to walk around with my camera and explore a bit. It seemed I was the only camper awake. All was quiet and still, besides a trio of sheep. Their hooves clicked and clacked as they strutted across the gravel road.
As I sat there sipping that first cup of coffee, I saw two Arctic foxes romping through the grass beside the café. I immediately prepped my camera and cautiously made my over to them.
After some time, two foxes became three, then four, as more emerged from a nearby den. They sniffed, played, climbed, and fought over a sheep bone, indifferent to the woman laying in the grass photographing them.
Eventually my photo session was interrupted by a lovely Australian couple seeking breakfast at the café. They stopped to ask me about my travels and then stayed to watch the foxes, who had moved on to inspecting the cafe perimeter. I suspected the scent of freshly baked goods peaked their interest, as it did mine.
The morning came and went as did the rest of the campers, until it was just me. After receiving an email that a nasty storm was approaching the southwest I decided to stay. Why would I leave such a peaceful oasis? There were sheep and sunshine and more opportunities to watch the foxes.
Around dinner time more campers arrived. I prepared a reasonably priced meal of Icelandic hot dog and home baked grain bread and watched the sun set from the rear of my van. When the chill arrives in Iceland I can always be found wrapped in my lopapeysu (Icelandic wool sweater). There is something special about Iceland’s colder months. My friend Iris uses the word “cozy,” and I’d have to say that’s fitting.
The second night was far different from the previous. Instead of a peaceful babbling brook, I was treated to the sound of hail and storm winds rocking my camper. My sleep was disturbed and I was awakened several times, awed by Iceland’s weather patterns. From sunshine and peace to chaos and cold- just like that.
I awakened early again, this time to a light misty rain and grey skies. Following coffee, I purchased an Ástarpungar, (a love ball, a delicious Icelandic donut) from Fjallakaffi and settled in beside the farm to wait for the foxes.
It wasn’t long before the foursome emerged, and I wondered what they had been doing/ thinking during the storm. This time they were even more rambunctious and I was able to get closer than yesterday. Hours passed as I lied in the dew stained grass unaware of my grumbling stomach, or my rain soaked pants. I was too engrossed in the foxes as they played, romped, climbed, and grappled over sheep bones without a care in a world.
At one point I noticed how I felt. I was in what some people refer to as the bliss state- this state of perfect happiness, completely unaware of anything else besides the foxes. As I journaled later that day in my camper, I realized what joy meant to me. I realized here on this little island, in this surprise oasis in the middle of nowhere, laying in grass, camera in hand and mind empty of all cares or worry, I had discovered my bliss. I discovered what joy was.
Upon reflection I have realized this was a pivotal moment for me. It reinforced my recent decision to photograph more, to write more, to spend more time researching and just being with nature. It motivated me to invest more time in this blog and include in my upcoming stay, a photography workshop with a focus on foxes and puffins. Observing and photographing nature is more than just a hobby, it raises awareness, and wildlife needs more advocates.
If your travels ever take you to Iceland, pay a visit to Moðrudalur in Northeast Iceland. Maybe you will get the chance to watch the fascinating family of foxes too! I wish everyone a path to their joy!
