An unplanned journey to the remote Grimsey Island delivers more than I expected.
I ascended the steep path with caution. My desire to go as north as possible urged me onward. The ground was slick with dew, but the sun promised warmth ahead. Cool air hit my skin as the sound of the ocean drew near. When I reached the top, I took a moment. It was a vast scene of blue ocean and circling sea birds. The air was thick with the pungent scent of the sea. A trio of curious puffins looked back, unaffected by my presence. I lifted my camera. The shutter clicked. I had taken my first picture of a puffin in the Arctic Circle. How special was this….
Walk into any tourist store in Reykjavik and you will see puffins galore. Puffin keychains, t-shirts, postcards, and trinkets adorn almost every shelf. The colorful sea bird attracts thousands of visitors to Iceland’s coastline every summer and delights wildlife photographers like me who dream of capturing the perfect puffin image.
I adore puffins, as I do most birds. They are a joy to watch, and it is easy to see why they are referred to as the “clown of the sea” with their bright beaks and endearing behaviors.
There are several locations in Iceland where you can see the puffins; however, after visiting them all, my vote goes to the remote Grimsey Island as the best place to see puffins, especially if you are a photographer.
The Atlantic puffin spends its winters at sea, returning to land during breeding and nesting season. Iceland is home to some of the world’s largest colonies, making it a prime destination to photograph these charming birds. Puffin season begins around mid-April in Iceland, ending in mid-August.
Last summer, I spent three days on Vestmannaeyjar ( an archipelago off Iceland’s south coast) photographing puffins. It was a magical stay, and my time with them was special. It was so special that I booked a ferry ticket once I got wind of the puffins returning and being spotted on Grimsey Island!
Grimsey Island – Iceland’s Arctic Gem
Grimsey is a remote island situated off the North coast of Iceland. What makes it even more unique is that part of the island is in the Arctic Circle and home to Iceland’s largest puffin colony.
Getting to Grimsey is an adventure in itself. At the time I was part of an art residency on another small island in Eyjarfjorður called Hrísey, which meant I had to take a ferry to reach the mainland. From there, I hired a taxi to take me to Dalvik. There is a bus (78) from Hrísey, but unfortunately, in April, it would not get me to the ferry Sævar for Grimsey in time.
The ferry for Grimsey leaves Dalvik at 9 AM and returns at 2 PM. It is a 3 hour journey. I decided this would not be enough time to walk the island and photograph the puffins, so I stayed the night.
I highly suggest spending a night on Grimsey. If you are a photographer, this is even more important, as it allows you to scout the island and decide what shots you want to take. There is also a lighthouse on the southern tip of the island, and a rumor that an art residency will also be located there!
Leaving the harbour from Dalvik was exciting. Knowing I was journeying into the open sea to reach the Arctic Circle was something I had only dreamed of.
The sail was enjoyable, with views of the deep blue ocean, the snowy fjord, and an opportunity to spot sea birds and whales!
For the first part of the sail, we were blessed with abundant sunshine and calm waters; however, the ocean got rough an hour away from Grimsey. I am not prone to sea sickness ( thank you, Dad, for raising me on boats!), but many passengers did get sick. I would suggest taking something for sea sickness, skipping the ferry, and booking a flight to Grimsey if you do not like boats.
When I arrived in Grimsey, I immediately explored and dropped off my bag at my guesthouse. It didn’t take long to spot the puffins, in fact, there were so many it was overwhelming.
Being as obsessed as I am with far off places and anything northbound I decided to trek to the most northern tip of the island where I would stand in the Arctic Circle.
There is a path and a sign for the Arctic Circle marker, a giant round sculpture that is moved whenever the magnetic location of the Arctic Circle changes.
Standing among the rolling grass dunes and gazing at the vast, deep blue sea creates a sense of being at the end of the world. I took a moment to say, “Wow, I made it to the Arctic Circle!”
Since it was the time of year when the Island still has a sunset, I decided to head out after dinner to walk along the cliffs and photograph the puffins at golden hour and sunset.
Furthermore, the sunset was sublime. Richly hued crimson and warm colors create a stunning frame, coupled with the deep blue of the ocean and rocky cliffs.
Photographing the puffins in this light was on my bucket list. I always had the idea of capturing the birds in the golden light and their silhouettes against the sunset. This creates a great story-telling image and reflects the simplistic beauty and aloneness one may feel standing on the island surrounded by nothing but nature.
I stood out there as long as I could withstand the dropping temperatures. I baked during the day in the Arctic Sun, but by nightfall, I needed my parka!
After a good sleep, I trekked north one more time. That morning I spent a few hours watching and photographing the puffins. Unfortunately, my camera had suffered significant electrical damage a few weeks back, photographing Arctic foxes in a snowstorm. As a result, my autofocus was unreliable. Capturing the puffins in flight was a challenge, but I did manage to get a few decent images.
For a good portion of this session, I put the camera down and observed the puffins. I think this is an underrated part of wildlife photography. Being with nature in such a wild place felt like a privilege. I was humbled to share that space with them.
That afternoon, I boarded Ferry Sævar back to Dalvik, where I spent the sail chatting with the handful of other tourists who had also visited the magical Grimsey.
On the way, we spotted a humpback whale in Eyjarfjorður. Seeing these gentle giants is always a treat, and I always fumble with my camera excitedly when they appear!
I will cherish the night I spent on Grimsey. It is a destination well worth the long journey.
Puffin Photography
If you are planning to photograph puffins, I highly suggest having an idea of what kind of images you would like to create. There are allot of puffins and it can be overwhelming as you may feel inclined to snap a photo of just about every single one of them!
I found it was best to go with an idea. I wanted a few key images: puffins at golden hour, puffins at sunset, a pair of puffins, and puffins with the ocean background.
What I find nice about puffins is that, due to their coloring, they are photogenic almost any time of day. So don’t shy away from the midday sun here.
You can still capture a stunning image if you keep the composition simple. I also loved the golden grasses here, which I felt created a lovely contrast between the land and the puffins. There are also other birds to photograph on Grimsey, such as Common Snipes, Golden Plovers, Fulmars, and Redshanks.
Settings to consider with puffin photography are your exposure and shutter speed. For perched puffins, a shutter speed of 400-600 will work just fine, whereas puffins in flight will require you to bump it up to 2500-4000.
Keep an eye on your histogram. The tricky part about puffins is not underexpposing their black feathers while also not blowing out the white chest feathers. I play around with the exposure rate, depending on time of day, until I achieve a properly exposed puffin.
You are better off overexposing the puffin versus underexposing, as editing software can constantly adjust the details. If a puffin is underexposed ( unless this is intentional, like at sunset), the details are lost.
It is also important to mention that we should respect the wildlife. An organic photograph is best captured from a respectful distance. If you choose, it is safe to approach the birds, so do so low to the ground and pause to observe their response to your presence. Do they appear disturbed? Or are they carrying on doing puffin things?
I found it was best to choose a location that gave me a good view and wait. Eventually, the puffins will draw closer on their own, allowing for mutual respect between me and the puffins without disturbing them. It also allowed for organic photos to form, versus me taking a picture of a puffin looking at me taking a picture. It’s a win-win!
And don’t forget to capture the landscape and a few shots of the other birds!
How to reach Grimsey
To reach Grimsey, take a ferry from the small northern town of Dalvik or fly from Akureyri to Grimsey. You can book a ticket for Ferry Sævar here. Dalvik is approximately a 5-hour drive from Reykjavik.
A domestic flight can take you to Akureyri, where you can pick up the 78 bus from the Hof Convention Center to Dalvik or a flight to Grimsey with Norlandair.
I personally loved the ferry ride ( although if you are prone to sea sickness, be aware that the boat hits rough water typically on the way due to the currents).
We spotted several humpback whales on the way, and sailing through the fjord always gives a stunning Nordic vibe. I also imagine the views from the plane are interesting!
I stayed at Guesthouse Gullsol which was right near the harbour. I was the only one there, so it was a quiet stay, which I needed after trekking all over the island. There is a shared bathroom and kitchen, but the accommodations were a bit “close”, so if you are sensitive to noise, it may not be the best place if you are a solo traveler like me, but would be great for a group of 5-6 people.
There are also a few other guesthouses on the island, a grocery store that is open for one hour a day, and one restaurant that is open during the summer or as requested in the winter season. I arrived in late April and was fortunate the restaurant had opened for other travelers!
Happy photographing and remember to put the camera down and just enjoy the puffins. You can really get lost in them like I did.
Here are my favorite images I captured on Grimsey
If you are interested in reading more about small island living in Iceland, as well as puffin photography, you may also enjoy…
Exploring the Serene Beauty of Hrisey
In 2021, my journey to write my first novel took me to Iceland. I was fascinated with the myths and the sagas. Since then, I have returned to the country ten times, even delivering a talk on Nordic Mythology at Midgard Base Camp. As my travels continue, I realize my personal story is developing. Reminiscent of a novel, Iceland gifted me with a plot twist that has enriched my life beyond words. Like the volcanic landscapes, lively winds, and glaciers that shape the landscapes here, the land of fire and ice has done the same for me.
May your wanderings be lucky enough to take you here.
