Visit Guðrunarlaugur and tour the valley, home of Guðrun Ósvifsdóttir, the only woman to take a lead in an Icelandic Saga.
Guðrun then spoke, “Though I treated him worst, I loved him best.”
Saga of the People of Laxdalur
Iceland is known for its hot springs experience. Most people opt for the Blue Lagoon, with its picture perfect creamy blue water, or Sky Lagoon with its pampering seven step ritual. I have been to both, as well as The Secret Lagoon, Forest Lagoon in Akureyri, and the one of kind Hvammsvik. I love them all for different reasons, however there is something so very special about a soak in a hot spring with historical significance.
In the picturesque Sælingsdalur valley, there is a story to be told. It is one of survival, love, betrayal, and like every good saga, tragedy. It features a woman by the name of Guðrun Ósvifsdóttir and an unforgettable love triangle. There in the valley, her hot spring has been recreated and if you listen close enough, you might get a glimpse of this unforgettable saga reimagined.
GUDRUNARLAUG -A HISTORICAL GEM
The hot spring Guðrunarlaug in the Sælingsdalur Valley gives you the real old world feels with its turf style changing room and stone border. If you’re lucky like me, even a private soak experience. Here is the story of my discovery of this saga spot and why I always make it part of every visit.
It was during my second trip in the depths of winter I began to explore the saga sites and learn more about Icelandic history and culture. This was a special trip for me and my stay centered around West Iceland and the beautiful peninsula known as “Little Iceland,” Snæfellsnes. I highly recommend a visit to Snæfellsnes. Not only this peninsula picture worthy with the distinct Kirkjufell mountain and charming black church of Buðir, but rich in folklore and myth.
During a drive up the West coat I discovered Guðrunlarlaug, a hot spring nestled between the hillsides of the Sæling Valley. This area is the site one of Iceland’s most famous sagas, The Saga of the People of Laxardala.
Although this spring is a recreation of the original pool, which sadly was destroyed during a landslide, I felt as if I had stepped back into time. As I soaked in the springs I couldn’t help but imagine what it would be like sitting across from one of Iceland´s most shrewd and scandalous saga stars- Guðrun Óvifsdóttir. I would have so many questions and I am sure she would have much to say!
ICELAND’S MOST ROMANTIC OR TRAGIC SAGA? YOU DECIDE.
The Icelandic Sagas were written in the 13th and 14th century, three centuries after they took place. The most romantic saga and popular saga was The Saga of the People of Laxardal where a woman by the name of Guðrun Ósvifsdóttir takes the lead role.
Guðrun was described as clever, cunning, and beautiful. She was of Viking ancestry, and although she was raised on a farm, her forefathers did not abandon the old ways. Her father was Rollo of Normandy, the ancestor of William the Conqueror. Other notable women appear in this saga such as Melkorka who pretended to be mute, Aud, ( a favorite of mine), and Þorgeid, who notably ordered her remaining sons to take revenge on her son’s, Kjartan, death.
Guðrun was born in 974 A.D. on the farm Laugur in the Sæling Valley. She was raised there with her five brothers and was regarded as the most beautiful woman in Iceland. The farm name Laugar means “hot spring,” and Guðrun could often be found bathing there.
One day the wise Gestur Óddleifson from Hagi passed by the springs to find Guðrun there. She told him of four dreams she would like interpreted which all eventually came true.
GUÐRUN AND HER FOUR HUSBANDS
The Saga of the People of Laxardalur contains many interesting historical figures. I am especially fascinated with Melkorka, an Irish captive who pretended to be mute. She was eventually freed and the farm Melkorkustadir is named after her. Besides the presence of strong, tenacious women in this saga, what is especially fascinating is the tragic love triangle between childhood friends Guðrun, Kjarton Òlafson, and Bolli Þorleiksson.
Kjarton and Bolli were cousins and were raised together. They often visited Guðrun at the hot spring. Guðrun fell in love with Kjartan, but when he was sent abroad she accepted a marriage proposal from Bolli.
When Kjartan returned he was heartbroken to learn the news. His one true love had married his close friend and cousin. Eventually Kjartan married, a farmer’s daughter by the name of Hrefna Asgeirsdóttir. He was described as happy, but that did not end the saga between him and Guðrun.
Sometime after, Guðrun and Bolli attended a family gathering where Hrefna asked Guðrun’s maid to mind her headdress. The headdress mysteriously disappears, and when Guðrun is questioned on the matter she replies, “Believe what you like as to the whereabouts of the headdress. I won’t shed any tears if the result is that Hrefna will have little ornament from the headdress from now on.” Did Guðrun steal the headdress out of jealousy? No one knows for sure, but I’d like to believe even a woman as cunning and beautiful as Guðrun can be flawed with jealousy when it comes to love.
As the saga continues, hostility reins between the people of Laugur and Hjardarholt, where Kjartan settled. The escalating dispute ends in tragedy as Guðrun orders her brothers and Bolli to ambush Kjartan as he passed by their home one night.
There, south of the ravine Hrafagil, Kjartan is killed, taking his last breath in the arms of his childhood friend, Bolli.
THE COWARD WAITS FOR THE EVENING
In the summer of 991, before the scanduous love triangle, Guðrun attended the parliamentary assembly at Þingvellir with Þord Ingunnarson. We can surmise Guðrun wanted. to marry Þord, who was already hitched with Auð. But this did not stop Gudrun who urged him to divorce Auð for wearing breeches like a man. Like every man during a breakup, (okay, maybe not every, but it does happen and we ladies don’t blame you!) Þord procrastinated on the matter. After all, divorce is unpleasant. I would bet Þord would have collected his sword for battle faster than tell Auð he wanted a divorce!
Guðrun then said, “The cowards wait for the evening.” To be called a coward was of the highest insult, and so Þord promptly divorced his wife, collected his livestock and settled with Guðrun in Laugur. They lived happily ever after right? Wrong. This is an Icelandic saga. 😉
SO, WHO DID GUÐRUN LOVE?
A question about this saga that is often asked is, who was Guðrun’s true love?
It wouldn’t be a real Icelandic saga without revenge. Revenge was tradition and not taking it was considered a disgrace and cowardly. And so as tradition goes, Bolli was killed by Kjartan’s brothers.
Following this, in the spring of 1008, Guðrun made a land exchange with her good friend Chieftain Snorri Þorgrimsson. He moved to Tunga and she and her sons moved to Snorri’s farm in Helgafell on the peninsula, Snæfellsnes.
In her older age she became very religious and lived in seclusion at Helgafell. One day her son, Bolli, visited her. He asked her, “Which of the men in your life did you love the most?”
Guðrun is quoted as saying, “To him I was worst whom I loved the most.”
You can visit the site where some of the saga took place up the road from Guðrunarlaug. There is a small pull-off and sign post as well as a waterfall you can hike down to. After reading the saga I felt especially moved to be standing here.
What I love about this saga is not just the strong notable women leads, is that it also showcases the depth of human nature. In early Iceland, farming and land disputes were not the only problems of every day life, but heartbreak, romance, and even petty jealousy. Even though it took place in different times, I believe many of us can relate to the real world problems that unfolded.
At Helgafell, on the Snæfellsnes peninsula, you can find what is believed to be Guðrun Osvifsdottir’s grave.
Guðrun’s four husbands were in order as follows;
Þorvaldur Haldorsson
Þordur Ingunarson
Bolli Þorleiksson
Þorkell Eyjolffson
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
There is no fee to use Guðrunarlaugur but there is a box at the beginning of the trail requesting donation to help keep the grounds suitable. There is a small turf style changing house beside the pool. In winter the path and area surrounding the pool can be icy, so take caution when exploring during your visit.
Not too far on road you can find a small pull off to your left as you head north with information about the Laxdæla Saga. There is a waterfall you can hike down to at the stop.
If you enjoy Gunðrunarlaug, also check out Hrunalaug in Fluðir not too far from The Secret Lagoon. This is a hot spring located on a farm that was once used for bathing sheep. It has three pools in total, one being fairly new and constructed to meet the demands of its growing popularity. The fee to use Hrunalaug is 2000 ISK and includes changing room and shower.
You can check the conditions of Hrunalaug here https://hrunalaug.is/
HOW TO GET THERE
From Reykjavik
Follow Route 49 Þodvegur 1 to Vestfjarðavegur in Borgarbyggð
Follow Vestjarðavegur to Dalabyggð
A left hand turn will take you to a gravel road. You will see Dalahotel on your left. Park behind the hotel. There you will see the trail and sign post for Guðrunarlaug. It is a short walk to the spring.
GPS Coordinates 65.246436,-21.805597
On your way from Reykjavik you will pass the Eiriksstadir, a notable visit spotlighting early Viking times with a recreated Erik The Red’s settlement. You can find more information here https://eiriksstadir.is/en/
Recommended Reading
Saga of the Icelanders Penguin House Classics Deluxe Edition
Short Sagas of Icelanders “The Saga of Gudrun”
