How traveling solo to Iceland in a camper van changed my life and tips for your journey
There is no plan but passion.
It was late August, and Iceland’s central region’s temperatures had given way to the winter’s chill. All was still and quiet on the farm when I rose from my camper van, wrapped in my warmest wool, my camera body dangling from my shoulder. I always loved early morning, before the world was awake, only a gentle stir of nature and that lovely promise that each new day brings.
A light fog rolled across the campground, creating an ethereal look with its turf houses and gentle slopes. A crimson sunrise reflected off the nearby stream, its light setting aglow the magnificent volcanic landscape that loomed in the distance.
Beside the restaurant, my subjects appeared—a family of resident Arctic foxes. Positioning myself inside a dew-stained trench in the grass, I found the perfect spot to photograph them as they explored the morning scents. A sweet fragrance rose from the opened kitchen window, most likely the product of a freshly baked Ástarpungar, or “love ball,” my favorite Icelandic donut.
I ignored the urge to leave the foxes to get one. I didn’t want to miss a second of their antics.
At that moment, the long-forgotten memory of photographing backyard birds with my mom came to mind, and I was reminded of my love for nature and photography. I pressed the shutter, barely feeling its release through my numb fingertips.
That day, I was lost in the moment, eventually tucking the camera away when more visitors arrived. I loved watching the foxes but enjoyed seeing the expressions of delight when other tourists saw them. The joy of traveling is often found in one’s experiences, as it can be by sharing it with others.
I spent the rest of the day in my camper, parked beside the brook that flowed through the grassy fields. In the distance, Herðubreid, the queen of the mountains, stood in all her glory. Occasionally, I would glance up from my editing and writing to take it all in, realizing that I had found myself at these simple moments inside my camper van.
The pants I wore that day still wear the grass stains from lying there for hours. It was worth every second.
How it began
It sounds dramatic, but traveling solo to Iceland changed and saved my life. I wasn’t supposed to visit Iceland. Back in 2021, I had booked a ten-day trip to Norway that inspired a book I was writing. The story was a creative twist on Norse Mythology, my take on the legends of gods, giants, elves, and magic. The story’s origins were traced to early times in Norway and Iceland’s Settlement era.
Several weeks before departure, Norway closed to tourism. My alternative was Iceland; little did I know this country was waiting to sweep me off my feet.
When I began researching what to see in Iceland, I was blown away by photographs of black sand beaches, waterfalls, and otherworldly landscapes shaped by volcanoes. I had no idea such places existed, as I was only familiar with Iceland’s Saga history and a famous piece of literature written by Icelander Snorri Sturluson, The Prose Edda.
There was so much beauty, and I had no idea how I would see it all, or at least as much as possible.
A friend suggested I explore the country in a camper van since it afforded me the most flexibility and adventure in my travels. This would be my first camper van experience and solo trip abroad. I was nervous, excited, and curious about how this experience would shape me. Little did I know I was about to embark on a path of self-discovery, and this trip would change my life.
My First Glimpse at Destiny
First, I will provide a little background on my story. I was raised in NYC and attended Fordham on a scholarship in the arts. Unfortunately, my mother passed away during this time unexpectedly from cancer. This event sent my life into a tailspin, and I spent my twenties confused about what I wanted out of life and lost my connection with the arts and nature. Many years later, I found my way.
I speak for many of us when I say the pandemic changed me. During this time, I realized what was important in life. No longer did material possessions matter so much, or devoting my entire life to a corporate job that did not feed my soul but finding joy in life and devoting more time to family and doing what I love.
During the pandemic, I rediscovered my passion for the arts. Like others, I had lost my job and decided to spend my free time writing and drawing. I entered a short story contest, which grew into a novella. A year later, I published my first book, a lifelong dream. I had no idea where life would take me next or that the land of fire and ice would be the answer.
My first visit
So, there I was. It was July 2021, and I was about to embark on my first solo adventure to Iceland. My camper van was booked, and a loose itinerary was planned. An anticipation built inside me like I had never felt before. My first trip abroad alone, my first camper van trip, and my first trip to Iceland!
My Iceland camper van adventure would take me to Þingvellir National Park, a historic site for any saga fan, and then onto the south coast, where I would see jewels such as Skógafoss and Jökulsfárlón Glacier Lagoon.
I will never forget when I looked out of the plane window during the red-eye flight. I was too excited to sleep. The stars glittered infinitely in the night sky. I had this overwhelming feeling of destiny, and the moment I hit the road in my camper van, I knew this trip was fate.
After coffee, I made my first stop at Þingvellir National Park, where I explored and saw my first Icelandic waterfall, Öxarárfoss. Then, I hiked the trail to the thermal rivers at Reykdajalur. I thought I had found heaven when a rainbow stretched across the path, coloring the green slopes that cradled the river.
That day, I made a vlog of my experiences, including a long, excited ramble about my awe of what I saw. I still have the video and occasionally watch it as a reminder to always approach life with the same joy and excitement I had that day.
On my first night in Iceland, I chose to camp at the now-closed campground in Grindavík. Grindavík was evacuated last year due to the volcanic activity on the Reykjanes peninsula. It is for this reason that this little town holds an exceptional place in my heart. It is difficult to fathom what it must be like to leave your home behind. This fate is nothing new to the Icelandic people and is a testament to the resilience it takes to live there.
Iceland has a wild history of eruptions, and it is fascinating to learn how they have affected the country and people’s lives. I highly recommend reading Egill Bjarnason’s book How Iceland Changed the World. It will blow your mind!
Last year, I held a fundraiser for the people displaced from their homes due to the eruptions and toured the area by helicopter. Seeing the empty town and the new lava fields was magnificent and sad. It gave me an idea of how new and ever-changing Iceland’s landscapes are, which I witnessed in Reykjanes during that first visit.
I rolled into the campground late evening, exhausted from the day’s explorations. My sleep that night was the best I have ever had, and the next day proved extraordinary. The following morning, I set out to hike the trail to watch the Fagradalsfjall eruption on the Reykjanes peninsula.
This was a day I will never forget. I stood there for hours, mesmerized by the fountains of neon-red lava that spewed from the crater. At that time, the eruptions were safe and visitor-friendly, and I feel fortunate to have witnessed such a marvel of nature in person!
The rest of my camper van adventure was a blur of waterfalls, colorful mountains, black sand beaches, café hopping, and landscapes that blew my mind. The weather was incredible, with plentiful sun, so I continued driving east to Jökulsfárlón, then north to Seyðisfjörður and Iceland’s “north capital,” Akureyri, where I tasted my first Icelandic pastry. What a dream that was! The next thing I knew, I was on my first full-ring road adventure, an entire circumnavigation of the country!
I will never forget the awe I felt at Skógafoss or seeing, for the first time, the Myrdalsjökull glacier sparkling in the morning sun. It was so beautiful that it brought me to tears.
Traveling solo in the camper was the perfect solution for exploring the ring road. It allowed me the flexibility to change plans, shorten my days if I was tired, and exercise my independence when deciding what to do for the day. I got creative with my meals, cooking dishes like my signature sweet potato and spinach sauté and enjoying the morning coffee press overlooking peaceful scenery.
I relished every sunset and sunrise and learned to build extra time for my drives because I had to stop at every car park to photograph the sheep!
In short, I left Iceland smitten, obsessed with Icelandic wool and Hjónabandsæla (Happy Marriage Cake) and vowed to return that winter.
I often talk about why I love Iceland, and it has very little to do with what I see but what I feel, which is a deep stirring in my heart as if I had found my soul’s home.
Benefits of Solo Travel by Camper Van
It is now fall of 2024, and I have traveled to Iceland EIGHT times, most by solo camper van adventures. During this time, I rediscovered my passion for writing and photography, reconnected with my childhood love of horseback riding, made new friends, sampled some of the best food the country has to offer, had countless unforgettable moments, and learned a whole lot about myself and what I want out of life.
Last year, I began a blog site dedicated to Iceland, which features my musings and photographs. I aim to publish a book of my pictures with stories accompanying each one and, even more importantly, help and inspire others to experience Iceland’s beauty.
Solo travel is the fast track to self-discovery. I believe this; you don’t have to be twenty-something or single to do it. Take it from me, a middle-aged introvert who knew this was way out of her comfort zone. Being lost in Iceland, I found myself, and you may find some new reasons why this is a great way to travel!
Here are some, but not all, the benefits of solo travel in a camper van:
- Sense of adventure—Traveling by camper van is an adventure within itself. Long drives, exploring new campgrounds, meeting new people, experimenting with recipes, and waking up in a new place every day can be an adventure if you allow it to be! Don’t be afraid to try new camp stove recipes, visit an off-the-beaten-path campground, or talk to people. It may lead to an unexpected adventure!
- Flexibility – Traveling by camper van in a place with unpredictable weather like Iceland allows for total flexibility and the freedom to change plans on the dime. Last summer, I opted to change my plans and stay in the north where the sun is. There is a lot to see in Iceland, and the camper van allows for the freedom to continue to drive and explore, linger a bit longer if you desire, pull over to admire a sunset or find a campground sooner than planned if you are tired. With the abundance of campgrounds in Iceland, it is the best option for those who desire flexibility when traveling and don’t want to feel confined by reservations.
- Independence – When traveling solo, you are bound to encounter a problem. Being alone means you are everything: the driver, decision-maker, and problem-solver. This was a fantastic way of creating a sense of independence, traveling, and building my confidence. It also means you are free to do what you want when you want, within reason, of course. I enjoy this aspect of solo travel. Although I enjoy the company of like-minded travelers on hikes and excursions, I enjoy the freedom of being the sole decision-maker during my adventure.
- Make new friends – For an introvert like me, this was a surprising side effect of solo travel. On my first trip to Iceland, I didn’t talk to anyone. This was a mistake, and I soon discovered I was missing out on one of the best parts of travel- meeting new people. During my second trip, I began to crave the company of others during my adventures. So, I booked a guided tour for my next visit. And then another. I started to talk to people and meet other female solo travelers and families; then, I began conversing with people at the campgrounds, restaurants, and cafes. This enriched my travels far more than I had imagined it would. Although everyone comes from different places and occupations, the common thread of traveling by camper and to Iceland is enough of a similar mindset to develop some good friendships. I spent last New Year´s with an Icelandic friend and her family I met on a guided tour, and a few conversations have even led to collaborative projects!
- Less is more– Living in a camper van for a few weeks taught me I could be happy with much less than needed. It amazed me how glad I was with just one suitcase of clothes and my camera, and coming from being raised in NYC, where I had everything at my fingertips, this was huge. Something like a hot shower or a good cup of homemade kjotsupa was heavenly, and I forever began to appreciate these things I would have otherwise taken for granted back home. Furthermore, simple moments like watching a sunset from my camper or sitting beside a waterfall in the early morning brought me more happiness than I could have imagined. When we learn to find joy in life’s simple moments, life takes on a whole new meaning, and we see beauty everywhere.
If you decide to embark on a solo camper van trip, you will discover that this mode of travel offers many more benefits. Another reason I didn’t hesitate to travel to Iceland alone was how safe Iceland is, specifically for female travelers. In the eight times I have visited, I have never felt unsafe or uncomfortable, even on my first night.
Since I have done this a few times, making some mistakes and doing things right, I would like to share my top tips for women solo trippers in camper vans in Iceland.
My Top Tips for Solo Travelers in a Camper Van
After doing this eight times, I have learned much about what to do and what not to do. The neat thing about the plethora of travel advisers nowadays is that we all offer a unique perspective on our experiences. I may offer something here you may not see elsewhere, and so on.
Ask me where you can have a luxury dining experience, and I will have yet to learn. But I can tell you where the best coffee is in each town. So here are a few of the top tips for solo travelers in a camper van. These can apply to any gender, even if you are traveling as a couple or with a friend!
- Don’t overbook your days– This is probably my biggest and best advice because I have done this and realized it was a mistake. This isn’t easy in a place as full of things to see and do as Iceland. You will not see it all in one trip. In a place like Iceland, this is impossible. Especially if you enjoy hiking and photography, these activities sometimes take up hours a day. My recommendation is to plan for 2-3 activities a day at the most, and if it’s a long hike, make that the day’s plan and that’s all. Consider your drive time, meal prep, organizing the camper, and downtime- the time you take to relax, be, and CHILL. One of the benefits of solo travel is that you oversee everything. However, this can be a challenge, too. It is tempting to keep driving late into the night, but I caution you not to underestimate the driving in Iceland; two hours around the fjords can be exhausting, and on a long drive day, you want to plan for plenty of time to take adequate breaks and get a good night’s rest for the following day. If you are Aurora hunting, don’t plan anything for the next morning. Instead, sleep in and hit the road well-rested to enjoy a leisurely and safe drive to your next destination—plan extra time for driving so you can take coffee breaks or stop at a scenic sight. Don’t rush Iceland; instead, choose your top sights must-dos and relish them. This is the best way to experience Iceland; trust me on this! You can always return again and again like I have!
- Treat yourself – Eating grilled cheese and hot dogs in the camper daily is tempting. They are quick and delicious, but it is good to plan a few times during your trip when you cook wholesome meals for yourself. A camper van adventure is an experience, and cooking is part of it! Also, plan a day to sample the local fair at a café or restaurant and visit a local hot spring for a rejuvenating soak! I recommend Myvátn Nature Baths in the North, Sky Lagoon, or Hvammsvik for its gorgeous fjord views in the West. For a good camper van meal, you can keep it simple. A nice dinner is sauteed sweet potatoes with spinach, pepper, and eggs. Chop the potatoes into small chunks and toss them into a pan with butter or olive oil. Sauté until softened. Add scrambled eggs and spinach. Add a choice of spices. Cook until the eggs are to your texture liking, and voila! Also, don’t forget to stretch after a long drive. I invented a short “camper van” yoga routine I would do in the evening to wind down. Adventuring can be tiring, so treat yourself and indulge in a relaxing activity. You earned it!
- Take care of your skin and hair – This is not for aesthetics but for good reason. The wind can be as intense in Iceland as the sun. On my first visit, I spent one hour combing the knots out of my hair one night! If you have long hair like I do, applying some leave-in conditioner and pulling it back in a bun or a braid when exploring is best. Also, the sun can be powerful, so pack your sunscreen, shades, and lip balm.
- Book at least one guided tour– Budget for at least one guided tour during your trip. This is a great way to meet like-minded travelers, support businesses, engage with the local community, learn local history and customs, and see parts of Iceland inaccessible due to dangerous driving. I would also encourage you to venture off the mainstay tourist activities and immerse yourself in Iceland’s culture and way of living. The swimming pools are a huge part of Icelandic culture, so check one out during your stay. Many towns also host local events such as artisan markets, art shows, and concerts worth attending. Iceland is rich in the arts, theatre, and culture. Even in winter, you can find a variety of festivals, concerts, and local events, such as markets. This is a lovely and easy way to meet locals, support small businesses, and learn more about Icelandic culture. If you are lucky like me, you might make new friends[GM1] . And don’t forget to check out the Hand Knitting Association of Iceland in Reykjavik for handmade wool items, a staple in the Icelandic wardrobe.
- Journal daily – Solo travel teaches you a lot about yourself. This is not always an easy thing, especially when you begin to discover some things about yourself you feel you may need to work on. It is one of the best paths to self-discovery. I have had some of my best ideas or thoughts come on a long drive or evening sitting outside my camper. It is lovely to have a daily journal where you can record some of the things that come to mind. It can be as effortless as what your day was like and what you are grateful for or more reflective and long; during my trip, I also made a few video journal recordings, which are always wonderful to look back on years later. I have one from three years ago when I visited Iceland in the winter and talked about how I felt this wouldn’t be my last time there. Boy, was I right! Plus, it can help you assist with your future travels!
- Obey weather warnings and plan accordingly – On a sunny, calm day, there is no other place I would rather be than standing on a mountain in Iceland or beside the sheep on a grassy field. However, Iceland’s weather can be harsh and unpredictable. My best advice is to approach your trip with a flexible mindset and always put safety first. Check vedur.is before heading out and planning accordingly. Happy Campers provides a list of recommended apps you can access here happycampers.is/apps. The nice thing about the camper van is you can move around as needed and plan by the weather report or follow the sun. I opted to stay put for two days during a bad storm in the south. Sure, I would have instead been out adventuring, but why put myself in harm’s way when I can be safe at a campground, relaxing and enjoying the ambiance? As a solo traveler, you are responsible for your safety and all decisions, so make good ones! Safety first, and obey nature. Have a plan B and be flexible when the weather turns. It is a good idea to research some indoor activities for your visit, such as museums or cute cafes, as a backup plan for days you have a hike planned. One of my favorites I visited during a storm in the West Fjords was Café Litle Bær. They serve delicious waffles and coffee, all in a hospitable and historic atmosphere. Whether hiking through epic fjords or tasting local waffles at a charming café, it was all part of my Iceland experience!!
- Be aware of your surroundings – Iceland is one of the safest countries for solo female travelers. I have never felt unsafe or uncomfortable during my travels, even on my first night alone in a camper or while taking an evening stroll in Akureyri. With an extremely low crime rate (one of the lowest in the world!), it’s a great place to get started with solo travel, but this doesn’t mean you should let your guard down. Be aware of your surroundings when traveling in and around cities or hiking alone. Practicing mindfulness is always good, regardless, as it keeps us present in the moment, and our senses become immersed in the details! Furthermore, Iceland is a diverse country, and I would say that most Icelanders are inclusive, welcoming, and culturally aware. I have never felt unwelcome or uncomfortable in any city, town, or event, and I have encountered people from various cultures and backgrounds who were friendly and inviting!
- Converse with locals –I didn’t talk to anyone during my first trip to Iceland. Being naturally shy and conversing with strangers always felt awkward, but I soon learned this was the best way to learn, meet new people, and make my most unforgettable memories. One morning, while visiting the Arctic Henge in the very north and remote town of Raufarhöfn, an elderly man began conversing with me. He didn’t speak fluent English, and I only speak basic Icelandic, so the talk was difficult, but he wanted to tell me how he walks daily for his heart health. As I looked into his eyes, I wondered what kind of stories he had behind them and how challenging yet wonderful it must be to grow up in such a place as Raufarhöfn. I wish I had the nerve to ask to take his photograph because his face was the perfect portrait of the tale of an Icelandic fisherman. When I walked to the Arctic Henge this year, I hoped to see him because I wanted to ask him if I could, but I didn’t. So don’t be afraid to talk to people. Seize every moment to learn and have conversations with the locals. It will be some of your best memories behind the photographs!
- Try something new – I tended to stick to my favorites and routine in the past, but I learned I can have a lot of fun and experience Iceland when I wing it, too. There have been many days where I have no plans, and I google sights or local cafes on my planned route for the day. I have discovered many lesser-known gems this way, such as hidden hot springs, quiet walking trails, and adorable cafes. So don’t be afraid not to have a plan and try something different! This also applies to cuisine, even the Icelandic fermented shark.
There is no plan but passion
I am not exaggerating when I say visiting Iceland changed my life in the best way. Over the last three years, I have made lifelong friends and connections worldwide through my solo travels and had countless unforgettable experiences. I invested more energy into my passion and dedicated almost all my time to writing and photography.
This all took an incredible amount of work, sometimes working my day job and side hustles upwards to sixty hours a week and selling some needless belongings to get there. As mentioned, solo camper van travel teaches you that less is more, and I have a much different outlook now regarding materialistic possessions than I had in the past. However, I will never part with my camera or gigantic owl coffee mug!
Last year, I began this blog site, An Owl in Iceland, which features my Icelandic musings, travel tips, stories, and photography. I envision the website as a place to inspire and capture my love for the country I hold so dear. These writings led to writing a few blogs for Icelandic companies about my experiences and Iceland’s landscapes.
Some of my articles made it back to the States to be published in well-known journals. This spring, I was interviewed by Women Who Podcast Magazine about an article I wrote titled “Honoring Your Authentic Self,” which was inspired by my solo travels.
In the process, I published another book in Norse Myth, which includes a chapter based on the Icelandic fairy tale of Skógafoss waterfall. Both books, Father of Monsters and Loki and the Vat of Truth can be found on Amazon and include illustrated maps of the Nine Realms in Norse Mythology with places named after Icelandic landmarks.
Along with the book came an entire hand-poured candle line inspired by Iceland and its mythos, which I used as a fundraiser to assist those affected by the Reykjanes eruptions. It has been a whirlwind of change, hard work, and risk-taking that all began with a decision to get on a plane alone.
So now what’s next?!
I will embark on my first winter camper van adventure in January and bring a few friends along for an Iceland Northern Lights adventure! I am also excited to announce that I was awarded an art residency in Iceland, so I can finally finish a few more Iceland-inspired projects.
When discussing my recent web page design with my designer, he asked me what my plans were. I said I plan to keep following my heart. I have learned not to plan my life so much, as things rarely go as planned. This may be my way of finally adopting the Icelandic way of living, petta reddast, to go with the flow in life and that everything will work out. After all, you can always go right following your passion in life.
What Life is About
Each solo trip to Iceland has given me unique gifts and life lessons; this last one solidified what life is about.
This past summer, I spent thirty-five days in a camper van exploring Iceland and finally got to photograph puffins at Vestmannaeyjar, a dream of mine. I will never forget the first time I witnessed the aurora fill the sky or sunset colors over the ocean near Stórhöfði.
I had taken my camper on the ferry and spent three days on the island with the puffins. I would head to the colony every morning and return there again in the evening. At first, it was because I was eager to photograph them, but as the days passed, I realized it was much more than this. I enjoyed the connection to nature and the peace I felt just watching them.
On my final night there, I was rewarded with a beautiful sunset. I will never forget this moment walking through the high grasses towards the colony on the Stórhöfði cliffside.
The warm light set the fields aglow, reflecting colors on the calm sea and illuminating the neighboring volcanic islands of the Westmann archipelago.
At one point, I paused to sit beside a trio of grazing sheep; the only sounds were the lapping of the ocean and seabirds. I looked out over the puffin colony. The evening activity peaked as they tended to their young in the caves on the cliffsides. I watched as thousands of them circled the area, coming so close to me I could hear their wings flap.
The morning with the foxes came to mind. I snapped a few photographs and then paused to take a deep breath of ocean air, thinking this is what life is about for me.
It amazes me how one decision I made a few years ago has impacted my life so significantly and in such a good way. It echoes the spirit of the women I read about in the Icelandic Sagas, sailing to unchartered waters with only hope in their hearts and the stories that inspired me to come here years ago. I’d like to believe their spirit lives in Iceland; you will be inspired if you open your heart to it.
So here it is: go out there, find yourself on that solo adventure, and discover what life is about for you. Remember to savor your days, immerse yourself in the experience, and open your heart to new possibilities!
Read all about how Northern Lights hunting transformed my life here.
Iceland Travel Tip: Embracing Spontaneity and Slowing Down
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